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I didn’t know if I was going to the summit, or the summit was coming to me. |
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Gerry Roach’s Climbing Resume |
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| Himalaya | Everest 29,035’ | 1976 | American Bicentennial Everest Expedition Reached South Col 26,200’ |
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| 1983 | Seven Summits Mt Everest Expedition 12th American to reach Everest’s summit |
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| Manaslu 26,760’ | 1978 | Colorado Himalaya expedition 1st American Manaslu expedition - reached 24,000’ |
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| Xixabangma 26,291’ | 1981 | 1st American Xixabangma expedition Reached 21,000’ - Leader |
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| Ganger Punsam 24,000’ | 1985 | Explorer’s Club Ganger Punsam Expedition 1st ascents of several 19,000-foot peaks |
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| Karakorum | Gasherbrum II 26,360’ | 1997 | Spent 3 hours on summit | |
| Antarctic | Mt Vinson 16,067’ | 1985 | 2nd person to reach all 7 continent summits | |
| Tyoto Zan 1,200’ | 1968 | 1st American ascent | ||
| New Guinea | Carstenz Pyramid 16,037’ | 1994 | 18th person to climb the 7 continent summits plus Carstenz | |
| Carstenz East | 1994 | |||
| Sunday Summit | 1994 | |||
| Alaska | McKinley 20,320’ | 1963 | West Buttress - Leader - 34th ascent of peak | |
| 1990 | Muldrow to West Buttress traverse - Leader | |||
| 1991 | West Buttress - Leader | |||
| Foraker 17,400’ | 1975 | Archangel Ridge - New route - Leader | ||
| Blackburn 16,390’ | 1977 | E and W summits | ||
| 1st traverse of peak - 2nd ascent of SE ridge - Leader | ||||
| Hunter 14,573’ | 1994 | 8th person to climb Denali, Foraker, and Hunter | ||
| St. Elias 18,008’ | 2000 | 1st person to climb North America’s 10 highest peaks | ||
| Bona 16,550’ | 2003 | 1st person to climb North America’s 13 highest peaks | ||
| East Kahiltna Pk 13,440’ | 2001 | 5th ascent of peak | ||
| Sanford 16,237’ | 1995 | Leader | ||
| Wrangell 14,163’ | 1964 | Spent summer on summit | ||
| Haydon Pk 11,945’ | 1984 | 3rd ascent - Leader | ||
| Henson Pk 10,000’ | 1988 | 1st ascent of peak - Leader | ||
| 11 other peaks | ||||
| Canada | Yukon: | |||
| Logan 19,524’ | 1973 | Main and West summits - Leader | ||
| Lucania 17,150’ | 1967 | 2nd ascent of peak - New route - Leader | ||
| Steele 16,644’ | 1967 | 3rd ascent of Pk- New route - Leader | ||
| King Pk16,973’ | 1999 | 2nd ascent of complete West Ridge | ||
| Selkirks: Sir Donald (NW arete), Eagle, Dawson, Selwin, Topham, Wheeler | ||||
| Rockies: Temple (Solo), Eiffel, N and S Twins and 8 others | ||||
| Coast Range: Garibaldi, Seymore | ||||
| Arctic: Hare | 1994 | (Solo) | ||
| Peru | Huascaran 22,205’ | 1968 | S ridge to 20,500’ - Leader | |
| 1971 | S summit - Leader | |||
| Chacraraju 20,056’ | 1971 | S face of E peak to 19,500’ | ||
| Nevado De Copa 20,351’ | 1968 | Leader | ||
| Nevado Pisco 19,029’ | 1971 | Leader | ||
| Rima Rima | 1978 | Leader | ||
| Nevado Chaco | 1978 | Leader | ||
| Aquilpo Sur | 1978 | Leader | ||
| Ecuador | Chimborazo 20,702’ | 1972 | Veintimilla Summit 20,561’ - Leader | |
| 1980 | Veintimilla and Whymper Summits - Leader | |||
| Cotopaxi 19,347’ | 1980 | Leader | ||
| Cayambe 18,996’ | 1993 | |||
| Iliniza Sur 17,267’ | 1993 | |||
| Iliniza Norte 16,817’ | 1993 | |||
| Rucu Pichincha 15,705’ | 1972 | Leader | ||
| 1980 | Leader | |||
| Argentina | Aconcagua 22,835’ | 1975 | Ruta Normal - Leader | |
| 1997 | Polish Glacier | |||
| Venezuela | Pico Bolivar 16,427’ | 1985 | Leader | |
| Chile | Ojos del Salado 22,588’ | 1988 | ||
| Osorno 8,800’ | 1988 | Leader | ||
| Villarica | 1996 | |||
| Lanin | 1996 | |||
| Mexico | Orizaba 18,700’ | 6X: | 1959 (S face), 1960 (S face), 1970 (N face), 1988 (N face), 1994 (Ruta Espinoza), 2009 (Ruta Espinoza) |
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| Popo 17,887’ | 6X: | 1959, 1960 (3 hrs), 1964 (Solo), 1970 (Ventorillo), 1983 (Ventorillo), 1988 |
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| Popo - Ventorrillo 16,404’ | 1983 | |||
| Izta 17,343’ | 5X: | 1959, 1960, 1970, 1983 (Arista del Luz, camp on summit), 1988 (Ayoloco) | ||
| Izta - La Cabeza 16,732’ | 1983 | |||
| Ixta - Los Pies 15,420’ | 1960 | |||
| Izta - Teyotl 15,420’ | 1998 | |||
| Ajusco 13,077’ | 1998 | |||
| Telepon 13,386’ | 1998 | |||
| Tlaloc 13,615’ | 1998 | |||
| Nevado De Toluca 15,433’ | 1988, 1998 | 4 summits | ||
| La Malinche 14,636’ | 1988, 1998 | 4 summits | ||
| Nevado De Colima 14,600’ | 1992 | Main and North peaks solo | ||
| Sierra Negra 14,436’ | 1994, 1998 | 2X | ||
| Cofre de Perote 14,048’ | 1994, 1998 | 2X | ||
| Piccacho del Diablo 10,154’ | 1973 | N and S summits | ||
| Cerro Pescadores 3,543’ | 2001 | |||
| Pico Risco 4,953’ | 2003 | |||
| Guatemala | Tajulmulco | 1988 | Highest in Central America | |
| Volcan Agua | 1988 | |||
| Costa Rica | Cerro Chirripo | 2008 | Highest in Costa Rica | |
| 7 others | 2008 | |||
| France | Mont Blanc 15,781’ | 1973, 1988 | 2X | |
| Mont Blanc du Tacul | 1988 | |||
| Aiguille du L’M | 1973 | |||
| Aiguille du L’index | 1988 | |||
| others | ||||
| Switzerland | Matterhorn 14,690’ | 1973 | ||
| Monte Rosa 15,203’ | 1973 | |||
| Rifflehorn | 1973 | |||
| Germany | Kramerspitze | 2003 | ||
| Spain | Pico Tiede | 2008 | Highest peak in Spain | |
| Norway | Galdhoppigen, Glittertind | 1960 | ||
| Store Skagastolstind, others | 1973 | Highest peaks in Norway | ||
| Iceland | Oraefajokull | 1973 | ||
| Turkey | Ararat 16,853’ | 2003 | ||
| Tanzania | Kilimanjaro 19,340’ | 1973 | Marangu Route | |
| 2002 | Machame Route with Arrow Glacier finish | |||
| Lava Tower 15,230’ | 2002 | |||
| Meru 14,978’ | 2002 | |||
| Little Meru 12,450’ | 2002 | |||
| Kenya | Points Lenana and John | 1973 | ||
| Morocco | Jebel Toubkal | 2007 | Highest Peak in North Africa | |
| Cameroon | Mt Cameroon | 2009 | Highest Peak in West Africa | |
| Ethiopia | Ras Dashen, Bwahit, others | 2009 | ||
| South Africa | Lions Head | 1969 | ||
| New Zealand | South Island: | |||
| Cook to within 800’ of summit | 1974 | |||
| Bealy | 1968 | |||
| Wakefield, Kitchner | 1974 | |||
| Annette, Oliver | 1974 | |||
| North Island: | ||||
| Ruapehu | 1968 | |||
| Nugarohoe, Tongoriro, Egmont | 1974 | |||
| Australia | West Australia: | 1973 | ||
| Bluff Knoll (Easter Gully), Talyuberlup, Toolbernup | ||||
| Central Australia: | 1973 | |||
| Mt Olga, Ayers Rock (2X: Regular Route and Emily Creek Route) | ||||
| Victoria: | 1968 | |||
| Kosciuszko, Townsend, Ramshead | ||||
| Tasmania: | 1973 | |||
| Cradle Mtn, Barn Bluff, Pelion West, Ossa, Acropolis, Wellington | ||||
| Russia | Caucasus: | 1985 | ||
| Elbrus 18,481’ | ||||
| Cheget Kara 12,368’ | ||||
| Trek from Baksan Valley to Mestia via Mestia Pass | ||||
| Malaysia | Sabah, Borneo: | |||
| Kinabalu 13,455’ | 1993 | Highest in SE Asia | ||
| Thailand | Doi Inthanon 8,451’ | 1993 | ||
| Rock climbing in southern Thailand | ||||
| Japan | Fuji 12,388’ | 1976 | ||
| Taiwan | Yu Shan, Shue Shan |
2008 | 2 highest peaks in Taiwan | |
| USA | All 50 state summits | |||
| 255 county summits total | ||||
| 49 national park summits total | ||||
| Colorado | All the fourteeners twice | |||
| 100 highest peaks in Colorado | ||||
| Over 500 ranked thirteeners | ||||
| All 64 Colorado county summits | ||||
| Over 1,400 peaks including many winter ascents, and several routes on the east face of Longs Peak | ||||
| 1st person to climb every named peak in Rocky Mtn National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness |
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| Every peak in Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||
| Every peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness | ||||
| Every peak in Boulder, Gilpin and Clear Creek Counties | ||||
| Every named peak in Jefferson County | ||||
| The Pfiffner Traverse | 1987 | Berthoud Pass to Milner Pass | ||
| Extensive rock climbing in the Boulder area including many first ascents | ||||
| View a list of Gerry’s Flatiron climbs in Project Island | ||||
| Author of the Colorado guidebooks: | ||||
| Flatiron Classics - Easy Rock Climbs above Boulder (2 editions) | ||||
| Rocky Mountain National Park - Classic Hikes and Climbs | ||||
| Colorado’s Indian Peaks - Classic Hikes and Climbs (2 editions) | ||||
| Colorado’s Fourteeners - From Hikes to Climbs (2 editions) | ||||
| Colorado’s Fourteeners - From Hikes to Climbs Companion Map Pack | ||||
| Colorado’s Lost Creek Wilderness - Classic Summit Hikes (2 editions) | ||||
| Colorado’s Thirteeners - From Hikes to Climbs | ||||
| View information about my books in Book Land | ||||
| Washington | 80 Cascade Peaks including all the “Majors” | |||
| Rainier (5 ascents: 6th ascent of Nisqually Icefall, Fuhrer Finger, Emmons, Liberty Ridge twice), Baker (N ridge), Redoubt, Challenger, Fury (NE face), Luna, Boston, Formidable, Spider, Spire Point (2X), Dome (2X), Sinister, Fortress, Little Tahoma, Olympus (2X) |
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| Wyoming | Tetons: | |||
| Grand Teton (Exum Ridge twice), Mt Owen (NE snowfields), Middle Teton, South Teton, Nez Perce, Teewinot, and 12 other Teton peaks | ||||
| Wind Rivers: | ||||
| Gannett Pk (N ridge), Split, Stroud, 6 peaks in the Cirque of the Towers | ||||
| Cloud Pk (NE face), Devils Tower (2X), Medicine Bow Pk | ||||
| Arizona | Baboquivari, Montezuma’s Head, Ajo (6X), Kino (2X), Diaz Peak, Diaz Spire, Weavers Needle (2X), Humphreys (2X), Castle Dome (2X), Kofa (2X), Wilson, Perkins, Peacock, 20 others |
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| All 15 Arizona county summits | ||||
| Considerable hiking and scrambling in the Grand Canyon, including a round trip run from the south rim to the north rim and back in 9 hrs 15 min | ||||
| New Mexico | Shiprock | 1960, 1969 | 2X | |
| Sierra Blanca, Wheeler Pk (3X), Taylor, Truchas (6 Peaks) | ||||
| Several peaks near Santa Fe | ||||
| Organ Needle, and Rock climbing in the Organ Mountains | ||||
| All 31 New Mexico county summits | ||||
| Several rock climbing routes on the Brazos Cliffs | ||||
| Utah | Uintahs: | Kings Pk (2X), South Kings Peak, Gunsight, Gilbert, Eccentric | ||
| Wasatch: | Naomi, Thurston, Olympus, American Twin Forks, Provo Pk, Nebo | |||
| La Sals: | N Tuk, Tuk, Peale, Mellentin, Waas, Tomasaki, others | |||
| Elephant Butte (9X), Castleton Tower, Navajo Mtn | ||||
| Abajos: | Abajo Pk, Shay | |||
| Henrys: | Ellen, Pennell, Hillers, Cass Creek Pk, Holmes, Ellsworth, others | |||
| Navajo (2X), Ibapah | ||||
| Zion: | North Guardian Angel, South Guardian Angel, East Northgate Peak | |||
| All 29 Utah county summits | ||||
| Over 45 years of exploring in the Utah desert | ||||
| Author of the guidebook: Arch Bagger, a scrambler’s guide to Arches National Park | ||||
| View information about Arch Bagger in Book Land | ||||
| View a list of Gerry’s Arch and Bridge bags in Project Island | ||||
| Montana | Beartooths: | Granite Peak, others | ||
| Idaho | Borah | |||
| Oregon | Hood (2X, 1 in winter), South Sister, Scott Pk (2X) | |||
| California | Sierras: | Whitney (Mountaineer’s Route), North Palisade, Lyell, McClure, Conness, North Pk, Dana, Sonora, Cloud’s Rest (2X), Half Dome (2X) | ||
| Cascades: | Shasta (winter), Lassen | |||
| Desert and Coast: | White, Montgomery, Dubois, Wildrose, Corkscrew, Telescope, Inyo, Waucoba, Last Chance, Tin, Dry, Manly, Old Dad, Clark, Chemehuevi, East Ord, Granite, Orocopia, Sheephole, Tucki, Thimble, Eagle, Canyon Point, Smith, New York, Stewart Point, Brown, Funeral, Winters, Sandy Pk, Striped Butte, Needle, Argus, Jacumba, Black Butte, Rabbit, Santa Rosa, Chuckwalla, Big Maria, Pyramid, Patterson, Glass, Edgar, Mitchell, Stepladder, Whipple, Palen, Martinez, Toro, Indianhead, Sombrero, Blue Angels, Hot Springs, San Gabriel, San Gorgonio, San Antonio, San Jacinto, Old Woman, Paniment Butte, Spectre Point, Porter, Ryan (2X), Quail (2X), Queen, others | |||
| Rock climbing at Thaquitz Rock and Joshua Tree | ||||
| Nevada | Charleston, Griffith, Mummy, Wheeler, Jeff Davis, Baker, Jefferson, Arc Dome, Boundary, Ruby Dome, Spirit, Virgin, Moapa, Turtlehead, Bridge, McCullough, Grapevine, Stirling, Potosi, Hayford, Davidson, Muddy, Currant, Star | |||
| Texas | Guadalupe Pk (2X), El Capitan, 5 peaks in Big Bend National Park | |||
| Hawaii | Mauna Kea (3X), Mauna Loa (2X), Hualalai, | |||
| Haleakala (6X, 2 from sea level including 1 round trip from sea level) | ||||
| Hanakauhi (2X), Kuiki, Kaala, Olomana, Chinaman’s Hat, many others | ||||
| 42 years of exploring on 6 islands | ||||
| Paddled Na Pali coast in 6-foot inflatable boat | ||||
| Other | I am a member of the American Alpine Club | |||
| Author of 12 mountaineering books | ||||
| See the 1976 American Alpine Journal for article on my Foraker climb | ||||
| I have instructed for the Colorado Outward Bound School | ||||
| I ran the Outdoor Pursuits Program at Fort Lewis College for 2 years | ||||
Copyright © 2001-2010 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved. |
