I didn’t know if I was going to the summit, or the summit was coming to me.
– Gerry Roach - From Beyond the Seven Summits

Gerry Roach’s Climbing Resume

Himalaya Everest 29,035’ 1976   American Bicentennial Everest Expedition
Reached South Col 26,200’
  1983   Seven Summits Mt Everest Expedition
12th American to reach Everest’s summit
  Manaslu 26,760’ 1978   Colorado Himalaya expedition
1st American Manaslu expedition -
reached 24,000’
  Xixabangma 26,291’ 1981   1st American Xixabangma expedition
Reached 21,000’ - Leader
  Ganger Punsam 24,000’ 1985   Explorer’s Club Ganger Punsam Expedition
1st ascents of several 19,000-foot peaks
Karakorum Gasherbrum II 26,360’ 1997   Spent 3 hours on summit
Antarctic Mt Vinson 16,067’ 1985   2nd person to reach all 7 continent summits
  Tyoto Zan 1,200’ 1968   1st American ascent
New Guinea Carstenz Pyramid 16,037’ 1994   18th person to climb the 7 continent summits plus Carstenz
  Carstenz East 1994  
  Sunday Summit 1994  
Alaska Denali 20,320’ 1963   West Buttress - Leader - 34th ascent of peak
  1990   Muldrow to West Buttress traverse - Leader
  1991   West Buttress - Leader
  Foraker 17,400’ 1975   Archangel Ridge - New route - Leader
  Blackburn 16,390’ 1977   E and W summits
    1st traverse of peak - 2nd ascent of SE ridge - Leader
  Hunter 14,573’ 1994   7th person to climb Denali, Foraker, and Hunter
  St. Elias 18,008’ 2000   1st person to climb North America’s 10 highest peaks
  Bona 16,550’ 2003   1st person to climb North America’s 13 highest peaks
  Fairweather 15,300’ 2011   Waited 23 days for summit weather;
Oldest person to climb Fairweather
  East Kahiltna Pk 13,440’ 2001   5th ascent of peak
  Sanford 16,237’ 1995   Leader
  Wrangell 14,163’ 1964   Spent summer on summit
  Haydon Pk 11,945’ 1984   3rd ascent - Leader
  Henson Pk 10,000’ 1988   1st ascent of peak - Leader
  Angayukaqsraq 4,750’ 2013   Highest peak in Kobuk Valley National Park
  12 other peaks    
Canada Yukon:    
  Logan 19,524’ 1973   Main and West summits - Leader
  Lucania 17,150’ 1967   2nd ascent of peak - New route - Leader
  Steele 16,644’ 1967   3rd ascent of Pk- New route - Leader
  King Pk 16,973’ 1999   2nd ascent of complete West Ridge
  Selkirks: Sir Donald (NW arete), Eagle, Dawson, Selwin, Topham, Wheeler
  Rockies: Temple (Solo), Eiffel, N and S Twins and 8 others
  Coast Range: Garibaldi, Seymore  
  Arctic: Hare 1994   (Solo)
Peru Huascaran 22,205’ 1968   S ridge to 20,500’ - Leader
  1971   S summit - Leader
  Chacraraju 20,056’ 1971   S face of E peak to 19,500’
  Nevado De Copa 20,351’ 1968   Leader
  Nevado Pisco 19,029’ 1971   Leader
  Rima Rima 1978   Leader
  Nevado Chaco 1978   Leader
  Aquilpo Sur 1978   Leader
Ecuador Chimborazo 20,702’ 1972   Veintimilla Summit 20,561’ - Leader
  1980   Veintimilla and Whymper Summits - Leader
  Cotopaxi 19,347’ 1980   Leader
  Cayambe 18,996’ 1993  
  Iliniza Sur 17,267’ 1993  
  Iliniza Norte 16,817’ 1993  
  Rucu Pichincha 15,705’ 1972   Leader
  1980   Leader
Columbia Ritacuba Blanco 17,749’ 2010   Ruta Normal - Leader
  Cerro Concavo 16,972 2010   Ruta Normal - Leader
  Toti 2010    
Argentina Aconcagua 22,835’ 1975   Ruta Normal - Leader
  1997   Polish Glacier
Venezuela Pico Bolivar 16,427’ 1985   Leader
Chile Ojos del Salado 22,588’ 1988  
  Osorno 8,800’ 1988   Leader
  Villarica 1996  
  Lanin 1996  
Mexico Orizaba 18,700’ 6X:   1959 (S face), 1960 (S face), 1970 (N face), 1988 (N face),
1994 (Ruta Espinoza), 2009 (Ruta Espinoza)
  Popo 17,887’ 6X:   1959, 1960 (3 hrs), 1964 (Solo), 1970 (Ventorillo),
1983 (Ventorillo), 1988
  Popo - Ventorrillo 16,404’ 1983  
  Izta 17,343’ 5X:   1959, 1960, 1970, 1983 (Arista del Luz, camp on summit), 1988 (Ayoloco)
  Izta - La Cabeza 16,732’ 1983  
  Ixta - Los Pies 15,420’ 1960  
  Izta - Teyotl 15,420’ 1998  
  Ajusco 13,077’ 1998  
  Telepon 13,386’ 1998  
  Tlaloc 13,615’ 1998  
  Nevado De Toluca 15,433’ 1988, 1998   4 summits
  La Malinche 14,636’ 1988, 1998   4 summits
  Nevado De Colima 14,600’ 1992   Main and North peaks solo
  Sierra Negra 14,436’ 1994, 1998   2X
  Cofre de Perote 14,048’ 1994, 1998   2X
  Piccacho del Diablo 10,154’ 1973   N and S summits
  Cerro Pescadores 3,543’ 2001  
  Pico Risco 4,953’ 2003  
Guatemala Tajulmulco 1988, 2015   2X Highest in Guatemala and Central America
  Volcan Agua 1988  
  Volcan Tacana 2015  
  Volcan Acatenango 2015  
Nicaragua Mogoton 6,909’ 2015   Highest in Nicaragua
Costa Rica Cerro Chirripo 2008   Highest in Costa Rica
  7 others 2008  
Panama Volcan Baru 11,398’ 2015   Highest in Panama
France Mont Blanc 15,781’ 1973, 1988   2X Highest peak in France and Western Europe
  Mont Blanc du Tacul 1988  
  Aiguille du L’M 1973  
  Aiguille du L’index 1988  
Switzerland Matterhorn 14,690’ 1973  
  Monte Rosa 15,203’ 1973  
  Rifflehorn 1973  
Germany Kramerspitze 2003  
Spain Pico Tiede 2008   Highest peak in Spain
Norway Galdhoppigen, Glittertind 1960   Highest peaks in Norway
  Store Skagastolstind, others 1973  
Iceland Oraefajokull 1973  
Turkey Ararat 16,853’ 2003  
Tanzania Kilimanjaro 19,340’ 1973
  2X Marangu Route,
Machame Route with Arrow Glacier finish
  Lava Tower 15,230’ 2002  
  Meru 14,978’ 2002  
  Little Meru 12,450’ 2002  
Kenya Points Lenana and John 1973  
Morocco Jebel Toubkal 2007   Highest Peak in North Africa
Cameroon Mt Cameroon 2009   Highest Peak in West Africa
Ethiopia Ras Dashen,
Bwahit, others
2009   Highest peak in Ethiopia
Uganda Mt Stanley,
Mt Baker
2011   Highest Peak in Uganda and the DRCC
South Africa Lions Head 1969  
New Zealand South Island:
  Cook to within 800’ of summit 1974  
  Bealy 1968  
  Wakefield, Kitchner 1974  
  Annette, Oliver 1974  
  North Island:
  Ruapehu 1968  
  Nugarohoe, Tongoriro, Egmont 1974  
Australia West Australia: 1973  
  Bluff Knoll (Easter Gully), Talyuberlup, Toolbernup
  Central Australia: 1973  
  Mt Olga, Ayers Rock (2X: Regular Route and Emily Creek Route)
  Victoria: 1968  
  Kosciuszko, Townsend, Ramshead
  Tasmania: 1973  
  Cradle Mtn, Barn Bluff, Pelion West, Ossa, Acropolis, Wellington
Russia Caucasus: 1985  
  Elbrus 18,481’ Highest peak in Russia and Europe
  Cheget Kara 12,368’
  Trek from Baksan Valley to Mestia via Mestia Pass
Malaysia Sabah, Borneo:
  Kinabalu 13,455’  1993   Highest peak in Malasia and conventional SE Asia
Thailand Doi Inthanon 8,451’ 1993   Highest peak in Thailand
  Rock climbing in southern Thailand
Japan Fuji 12,388’  1976   Highest peak in Japan
Taiwan Yu Shan,
Shue Shan
 2008   2 highest peaks in Taiwan
USA All 50 state summits
  289 county summits including all the county summits in CO, NM, AZ, UT, and NV
  55 national park summits total
Colorado All the Fourteeners twice
  100 highest peaks in Colorado
  Finished all of CO’s ranked Thirteeners on 9/1/2010
  All 64 Colorado county summits
  Over 2,000 peaks including many winter ascents,
and several routes on the east face of Longs Peak
  1st person to climb every named peak in Rocky Mountain National Park
and the Indian Peaks Wilderness
  Every peak in Rocky Mountain National Park
  Every peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness
  Every peak in Boulder, Gilpin, and Clear Creek Counties
  Every named peak in Jefferson County
  The Pfiffner Traverse 1987   Berthoud Pass to Milner Pass
  Extensive rock climbing in the Boulder area including many first ascents
  View a list of Gerry’s Flatiron climbs in Project Island
  Author of the Colorado guidebooks:
  Flatiron Classics - Easy Rock Climbs above Boulder (2 editions)
  Rocky Mountain National Park - Classic Hikes and Climbs
  Colorado’s Indian Peaks - Classic Hikes and Climbs (2 editions)
  Colorado’s Fourteeners - From Hikes to Climbs (3 editions)
  Colorado’s Fourteeners - From Hikes to Climbs Companion Map Pack
  Colorado’s Lost Creek Wilderness - Classic Summit Hikes (2 editions)
  Colorado’s Thirteeners - From Hikes to Climbs
  View information about my books in Book Land
Washington 80 Cascade Peaks including all the “Majors”
  Rainier (5 ascents: 6th ascent of Nisqually Icefall, Fuhrer Finger, Emmons, Liberty Ridge twice),
Baker (N ridge), Redoubt, Challenger, Fury (NE face), Luna, Boston, Formidable, Spider,
Spire Point (2X), Dome (2X), Sinister, Fortress, Little Tahoma, Olympus (2X)
Wyoming Tetons:
  Grand Teton (Exum Ridge twice), Mt Owen (NE snowfields), Middle Teton, South Teton, Nez Perce, Teewinot, and 12 other Teton peaks
  Wind Rivers:
  Gannett Pk (N ridge), Split, Stroud, 6 peaks in the Cirque of the Towers
  Cloud Pk (NE face), Devils Tower (2X), Medicine Bow Pk
  Francs Peak, Eagle Peak (Highest in Yellowstone)
Arizona Baboquivari (2X), Montezuma’s Head, Ajo (6X), Kino (2X), Diaz Peak, Diaz Spire,
Weavers Needle (2X), Humphreys (2X), Castle Dome (2X), Kofa (2X), Wilson, Perkins, Peacock, 45 others
  All 15 Arizona county summits; all 15 Arizona county prom peaks
  Considerable hiking and scrambling in the Grand Canyon, including a round trip run from the south rim to the north rim and back in 9 hrs 15 min; completed 4 Rim-Rim-Rims total
New Mexico Shiprock 1960, 1969   2X
  Sierra Blanca (2X), Wheeler Pk (3X), Taylor, Truchas (6 Peaks)
  Many peaks near Santa Fe
  Organ Needle (2X), and Rock climbing in the Organ Mountains
  All 31 New Mexico county summits
  Several rock climbing routes on the Brazos Cliffs
Utah Uintahs: Kings Pk (2X), South Kings Peak, Gunsight, Gilbert, Eccentric
  Wasatch: Naomi, Thurston, Olympus, American Twin Forks, Provo (2X), Nebo
  La Sals: N Tuk, Tuk, Peale, Mellentin, Waas, Tomasaki, others
  Elephant Butte (10X), Castleton Tower, Navajo Mtn
  Abajos: Abajo Pk, Shay, others
  Henrys: Ellen, Pennell, Hillers, Cass Creek Pk, Holmes, Ellsworth, others
  Navajo (2X), Ibapah
  Zion: North Guardian Angel, South Guardian Angel, East Northgate Peak
  All 29 Utah county summits
  Over 55 years of exploring in the Utah desert
  Author of the guidebook: Arch Bagger, a scrambler’s guide to Arches National Park
  View information about Arch Bagger in Book Land
  View a list of Gerry’s Arch and Bridge bags in Project Island
Montana Beartooths: Granite Peak, others
Idaho   Borah
Oregon   Hood (2X, 1 in winter), South Sister, Scott Pk (2X), McLoughlin, Bailey
California Sierras: Whitney (Mountaineer’s Route), North Palisade, Lyell, McClure, Conness, North Pk, Dana, Sonora, Cloud’s Rest (2X), Half Dome (2X)
  Cascades: Shasta (winter), Lassen, Eddy
  Desert and Coast: White, Montgomery, Dubois, Wildrose, Corkscrew, Telescope, Inyo, Waucoba, Last Chance, Tin, Dry, Manly, Old Dad, Clark, Chemehuevi, East Ord, Granite, Orocopia, Sheephole, Tucki, Thimble, Eagle, Canyon Point, Smith, New York, Stewart Point, Brown, Funeral, Winters, Sandy Pk, Striped Butte, Needle, Argus, Jacumba, Black Butte, Rabbit, Santa Rosa, Chuckwalla, Big Maria, Pyramid, Patterson, Glass, Edgar, Mitchell, Stepladder, Whipple, Palen, Martinez, Toro, Indianhead, Sombrero, Blue Angels, Hot Springs, San Gabriel, San Gorgonio, San Antonio, San Jacinto, Old Woman, Paniment Butte, Spectre Point, Porter, Ryan (2X), Quail (2X), Queen, many others
  Rock climbing at Thaquitz Rock and Joshua Tree
Nevada   Charleston, Griffith, Mummy, Wheeler, Jeff Davis, Baker, Jefferson, Arc Dome, Boundary, Ruby Dome, Spirit, Virgin, Moapa, Turtlehead, Bridge, McCullough, Grapevine, Stirling, Potosi, Hayford, Davidson, Muddy, Currant, Star; all 17 Nevada county summits; many others
Texas   Guadalupe Pk (2X), El Capitan, 5 peaks in Big Bend National Park
Hawaii   Mauna Kea (4X), Mauna Loa (2X), Hualalai,
  Haleakala (34X, 2 from sea level including 1 round trip from sea level)
  Hanakauhi (2X), Kuiki, Kaala, Olomana, Chinaman’s Hat, many others
  42 years of exploring on 6 islands
  Paddled Na Pali coast in 6-foot inflatable boat
Other   Member of the American Alpine Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Sierra Club, Highpointers Club, and Natural Arch and Bridge Society
  Recipient of the Sierra Club Farquhar Award in 2005
  Recipient of the Colorado Mountain Club Ellingwood Award in 2006
  Author of 15 mountaineering books
  See the 1976 American Alpine Journal for article on my Foraker climb
  I have instructed for the Colorado Outward Bound School
  I ran the Outdoor Pursuits Program at Fort Lewis College for 2 years
Copyright © 2001-2021 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved.
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