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I didn’t know if I was going to the summit, or the summit was coming to me. |
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Gerry Roach’s Climbing Resume |
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| Himalaya | Everest 29,035’ | 1976 | American Bicentennial Everest Expedition Reached South Col 26,200’ |
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| 1983 | Seven Summits Mt Everest Expedition 12th American to reach Everest’s summit |
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| Manaslu 26,760’ | 1978 | Colorado Himalaya expedition 1st American Manaslu expedition - reached 24,000’ |
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| Xixabangma 26,291’ | 1981 | 1st American Xixabangma expedition Reached 21,000’ - Leader |
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| Ganger Punsam 24,000’ | 1985 | Explorer’s Club Ganger Punsam Expedition 1st ascents of several 19,000-foot peaks |
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| Karakorum | Gasherbrum II 26,360’ | 1997 | Spent 3 hours on summit | |
| Antarctic | Mt Vinson 16,067’ | 1985 | 2nd person to reach all 7 continent summits | |
| Tyoto Zan 1,200’ | 1968 | 1st American ascent | ||
| New Guinea | Carstenz Pyramid 16,037’ | 1994 | 18th person to climb the 7 continent summits plus Carstenz | |
| Carstenz East | 1994 | |||
| Sunday Summit | 1994 | |||
| Alaska | Denali 20,320’ | 1963 | West Buttress - Leader - 34th ascent of peak | |
| 1990 | Muldrow to West Buttress traverse - Leader | |||
| 1991 | West Buttress - Leader | |||
| Foraker 17,400’ | 1975 | Archangel Ridge - New route - Leader | ||
| Blackburn 16,390’ | 1977 | E and W summits | ||
| 1st traverse of peak - 2nd ascent of SE ridge - Leader | ||||
| Hunter 14,573’ | 1994 | 7th person to climb Denali, Foraker, and Hunter | ||
| St. Elias 18,008’ | 2000 | 1st person to climb North America’s 10 highest peaks | ||
| Bona 16,550’ | 2003 | 1st person to climb North America’s 13 highest peaks | ||
| Fairweather 15,300’ | 2011 | Waited 23 days for summit weather; Oldest person to climb Fairweather |
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| East Kahiltna Pk 13,440’ | 2001 | 5th ascent of peak | ||
| Sanford 16,237’ | 1995 | Leader | ||
| Wrangell 14,163’ | 1964 | Spent summer on summit | ||
| Haydon Pk 11,945’ | 1984 | 3rd ascent - Leader | ||
| Henson Pk 10,000’ | 1988 | 1st ascent of peak - Leader | ||
| Angayukaqsraq 4,750’ | 2013 | Highest peak in Kobuk Valley National Park | ||
| 12 other peaks | ||||
| Canada | Yukon: | |||
| Logan 19,524’ | 1973 | Main and West summits - Leader | ||
| Lucania 17,150’ | 1967 | 2nd ascent of peak - New route - Leader | ||
| Steele 16,644’ | 1967 | 3rd ascent of Pk- New route - Leader | ||
| King Pk 16,973’ | 1999 | 2nd ascent of complete West Ridge | ||
| Selkirks: Sir Donald (NW arete), Eagle, Dawson, Selwin, Topham, Wheeler | ||||
| Rockies: Temple (Solo), Eiffel, N and S Twins and 8 others | ||||
| Coast Range: Garibaldi, Seymore | ||||
| Arctic: Hare | 1994 | (Solo) | ||
| Peru | Huascaran 22,205’ | 1968 | S ridge to 20,500’ - Leader | |
| 1971 | S summit - Leader | |||
| Chacraraju 20,056’ | 1971 | S face of E peak to 19,500’ | ||
| Nevado De Copa 20,351’ | 1968 | Leader | ||
| Nevado Pisco 19,029’ | 1971 | Leader | ||
| Rima Rima | 1978 | Leader | ||
| Nevado Chaco | 1978 | Leader | ||
| Aquilpo Sur | 1978 | Leader | ||
| Ecuador | Chimborazo 20,702’ | 1972 | Veintimilla Summit 20,561’ - Leader | |
| 1980 | Veintimilla and Whymper Summits - Leader | |||
| Cotopaxi 19,347’ | 1980 | Leader | ||
| Cayambe 18,996’ | 1993 | |||
| Iliniza Sur 17,267’ | 1993 | |||
| Iliniza Norte 16,817’ | 1993 | |||
| Rucu Pichincha 15,705’ | 1972 | Leader | ||
| 1980 | Leader | |||
| Columbia | Ritacuba Blanco 17,749’ | 2010 | Ruta Normal - Leader | |
| Cerro Concavo 16,972 | 2010 | Ruta Normal - Leader | ||
| Toti | 2010 | |||
| Argentina | Aconcagua 22,835’ | 1975 | Ruta Normal - Leader | |
| 1997 | Polish Glacier | |||
| Venezuela | Pico Bolivar 16,427’ | 1985 | Leader | |
| Chile | Ojos del Salado 22,588’ | 1988 | ||
| Osorno 8,800’ | 1988 | Leader | ||
| Villarica | 1996 | |||
| Lanin | 1996 | |||
| Mexico | Orizaba 18,700’ | 6X: | 1959 (S face), 1960 (S face), 1970 (N face), 1988 (N face), 1994 (Ruta Espinoza), 2009 (Ruta Espinoza) |
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| Popo 17,887’ | 6X: | 1959, 1960 (3 hrs), 1964 (Solo), 1970 (Ventorillo), 1983 (Ventorillo), 1988 |
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| Popo - Ventorrillo 16,404’ | 1983 | |||
| Izta 17,343’ | 5X: | 1959, 1960, 1970, 1983 (Arista del Luz, camp on summit), 1988 (Ayoloco) | ||
| Izta - La Cabeza 16,732’ | 1983 | |||
| Ixta - Los Pies 15,420’ | 1960 | |||
| Izta - Teyotl 15,420’ | 1998 | |||
| Ajusco 13,077’ | 1998 | |||
| Telepon 13,386’ | 1998 | |||
| Tlaloc 13,615’ | 1998 | |||
| Nevado De Toluca 15,433’ | 1988, 1998 | 4 summits | ||
| La Malinche 14,636’ | 1988, 1998 | 4 summits | ||
| Nevado De Colima 14,600’ | 1992 | Main and North peaks solo | ||
| Sierra Negra 14,436’ | 1994, 1998 | 2X | ||
| Cofre de Perote 14,048’ | 1994, 1998 | 2X | ||
| Piccacho del Diablo 10,154’ | 1973 | N and S summits | ||
| Cerro Pescadores 3,543’ | 2001 | |||
| Pico Risco 4,953’ | 2003 | |||
| Guatemala | Tajulmulco | 1988, 2015 | 2X Highest in Guatemala and Central America | |
| Volcan Agua | 1988 | |||
| Volcan Tacana | 2015 | |||
| Volcan Acatenango | 2015 | |||
| Nicaragua | Mogoton 6,909’ | 2015 | Highest in Nicaragua | |
| Costa Rica | Cerro Chirripo | 2008 | Highest in Costa Rica | |
| 7 others | 2008 | |||
| Panama | Volcan Baru 11,398’ | 2015 | Highest in Panama | |
| France | Mont Blanc 15,781’ | 1973, 1988 | 2X Highest peak in France and Western Europe | |
| Mont Blanc du Tacul | 1988 | |||
| Aiguille du L’M | 1973 | |||
| Aiguille du L’index | 1988 | |||
| others | ||||
| Switzerland | Matterhorn 14,690’ | 1973 | ||
| Monte Rosa 15,203’ | 1973 | |||
| Rifflehorn | 1973 | |||
| Germany | Kramerspitze | 2003 | ||
| Spain | Pico Tiede | 2008 | Highest peak in Spain | |
| Norway | Galdhoppigen, Glittertind | 1960 | Highest peaks in Norway | |
| Store Skagastolstind, others | 1973 | |||
| Iceland | Oraefajokull | 1973 | ||
| Turkey | Ararat 16,853’ | 2003 | ||
| Tanzania | Kilimanjaro 19,340’ | 1973 2002 |
2X Marangu Route, Machame Route with Arrow Glacier finish |
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| Lava Tower 15,230’ | 2002 | |||
| Meru 14,978’ | 2002 | |||
| Little Meru 12,450’ | 2002 | |||
| Kenya | Points Lenana and John | 1973 | ||
| Morocco | Jebel Toubkal | 2007 | Highest Peak in North Africa | |
| Cameroon | Mt Cameroon | 2009 | Highest Peak in West Africa | |
| Ethiopia | Ras Dashen, Bwahit, others |
2009 | Highest peak in Ethiopia |
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| Uganda | Mt Stanley, Mt Baker |
2011 | Highest Peak in Uganda and the DRCC |
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| South Africa | Lions Head | 1969 | ||
| New Zealand | South Island: | |||
| Cook to within 800’ of summit | 1974 | |||
| Bealy | 1968 | |||
| Wakefield, Kitchner | 1974 | |||
| Annette, Oliver | 1974 | |||
| North Island: | ||||
| Ruapehu | 1968 | |||
| Nugarohoe, Tongoriro, Egmont | 1974 | |||
| Australia | West Australia: | 1973 | ||
| Bluff Knoll (Easter Gully), Talyuberlup, Toolbernup | ||||
| Central Australia: | 1973 | |||
| Mt Olga, Ayers Rock (2X: Regular Route and Emily Creek Route) | ||||
| Victoria: | 1968 | |||
| Kosciuszko, Townsend, Ramshead | ||||
| Tasmania: | 1973 | |||
| Cradle Mtn, Barn Bluff, Pelion West, Ossa, Acropolis, Wellington | ||||
| Russia | Caucasus: | 1985 | ||
| Elbrus 18,481’ Highest peak in Russia and Europe | ||||
| Cheget Kara 12,368’ | ||||
| Trek from Baksan Valley to Mestia via Mestia Pass | ||||
| Malaysia | Sabah, Borneo: | |||
| Kinabalu 13,455’ | 1993 | Highest peak in Malasia and conventional SE Asia | ||
| Thailand | Doi Inthanon 8,451’ | 1993 | Highest peak in Thailand | |
| Rock climbing in southern Thailand | ||||
| Japan | Fuji 12,388’ | 1976 | Highest peak in Japan | |
| Taiwan | Yu Shan, Shue Shan |
2008 | 2 highest peaks in Taiwan | |
| USA | All 50 state summits | |||
| 289 county summits including all the county summits in CO, NM, AZ, UT, and NV | ||||
| 55 national park summits total | ||||
| Colorado | All the Fourteeners twice | |||
| 100 highest peaks in Colorado | ||||
| Finished all of CO’s ranked Thirteeners on 9/1/2010 | ||||
| All 64 Colorado county summits | ||||
| Over 2,000 peaks including many winter ascents, and several routes on the east face of Longs Peak |
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| 1st person to climb every named peak in Rocky Mountain National Park and the Indian Peaks Wilderness |
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| Every peak in Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||
| Every peak in the Indian Peaks Wilderness | ||||
| Every peak in Boulder, Gilpin, and Clear Creek Counties | ||||
| Every named peak in Jefferson County | ||||
| The Pfiffner Traverse | 1987 | Berthoud Pass to Milner Pass | ||
| Extensive rock climbing in the Boulder area including many first ascents | ||||
| View a list of Gerry’s Flatiron climbs in Project Island | ||||
| Author of the Colorado guidebooks: | ||||
| Flatiron Classics - Easy Rock Climbs above Boulder (2 editions) | ||||
| Rocky Mountain National Park - Classic Hikes and Climbs | ||||
| Colorado’s Indian Peaks - Classic Hikes and Climbs (2 editions) | ||||
| Colorado’s Fourteeners - From Hikes to Climbs (3 editions) | ||||
| Colorado’s Fourteeners - From Hikes to Climbs Companion Map Pack | ||||
| Colorado’s Lost Creek Wilderness - Classic Summit Hikes (2 editions) | ||||
| Colorado’s Thirteeners - From Hikes to Climbs | ||||
| View information about my books in Book Land | ||||
| Washington | 80 Cascade Peaks including all the “Majors” | |||
| Rainier (5 ascents: 6th ascent of Nisqually Icefall, Fuhrer Finger, Emmons, Liberty Ridge twice), Baker (N ridge), Redoubt, Challenger, Fury (NE face), Luna, Boston, Formidable, Spider, Spire Point (2X), Dome (2X), Sinister, Fortress, Little Tahoma, Olympus (2X) |
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| Wyoming | Tetons: | |||
| Grand Teton (Exum Ridge twice), Mt Owen (NE snowfields), Middle Teton, South Teton, Nez Perce, Teewinot, and 12 other Teton peaks | ||||
| Wind Rivers: | ||||
| Gannett Pk (N ridge), Split, Stroud, 6 peaks in the Cirque of the Towers | ||||
| Cloud Pk (NE face), Devils Tower (2X), Medicine Bow Pk | ||||
| Absarokas: | ||||
| Francs Peak, Eagle Peak (Highest in Yellowstone) | ||||
| Arizona | Baboquivari (2X), Montezuma’s Head, Ajo (6X), Kino (2X), Diaz Peak, Diaz Spire, Weavers Needle (2X), Humphreys (2X), Castle Dome (2X), Kofa (2X), Wilson, Perkins, Peacock, 45 others |
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| All 15 Arizona county summits; all 15 Arizona county prom peaks | ||||
| Considerable hiking and scrambling in the Grand Canyon, including a round trip run from the south rim to the north rim and back in 9 hrs 15 min; completed 4 Rim-Rim-Rims total | ||||
| New Mexico | Shiprock | 1960, 1969 | 2X | |
| Sierra Blanca (2X), Wheeler Pk (3X), Taylor, Truchas (6 Peaks) | ||||
| Many peaks near Santa Fe | ||||
| Organ Needle (2X), and Rock climbing in the Organ Mountains | ||||
| All 31 New Mexico county summits | ||||
| Several rock climbing routes on the Brazos Cliffs | ||||
| Utah | Uintahs: | Kings Pk (2X), South Kings Peak, Gunsight, Gilbert, Eccentric | ||
| Wasatch: | Naomi, Thurston, Olympus, American Twin Forks, Provo (2X), Nebo | |||
| La Sals: | N Tuk, Tuk, Peale, Mellentin, Waas, Tomasaki, others | |||
| Elephant Butte (10X), Castleton Tower, Navajo Mtn | ||||
| Abajos: | Abajo Pk, Shay, others | |||
| Henrys: | Ellen, Pennell, Hillers, Cass Creek Pk, Holmes, Ellsworth, others | |||
| Navajo (2X), Ibapah | ||||
| Zion: | North Guardian Angel, South Guardian Angel, East Northgate Peak | |||
| All 29 Utah county summits | ||||
| Over 55 years of exploring in the Utah desert | ||||
| Author of the guidebook: Arch Bagger, a scrambler’s guide to Arches National Park | ||||
| View information about Arch Bagger in Book Land | ||||
| View a list of Gerry’s Arch and Bridge bags in Project Island | ||||
| Montana | Beartooths: | Granite Peak, others | ||
| Idaho | Borah | |||
| Oregon | Hood (2X, 1 in winter), South Sister, Scott Pk (2X), McLoughlin, Bailey | |||
| California | Sierras: | Whitney (Mountaineer’s Route), North Palisade, Lyell, McClure, Conness, North Pk, Dana, Sonora, Cloud’s Rest (2X), Half Dome (2X) | ||
| Cascades: | Shasta (winter), Lassen, Eddy | |||
| Desert and Coast: | White, Montgomery, Dubois, Wildrose, Corkscrew, Telescope, Inyo, Waucoba, Last Chance, Tin, Dry, Manly, Old Dad, Clark, Chemehuevi, East Ord, Granite, Orocopia, Sheephole, Tucki, Thimble, Eagle, Canyon Point, Smith, New York, Stewart Point, Brown, Funeral, Winters, Sandy Pk, Striped Butte, Needle, Argus, Jacumba, Black Butte, Rabbit, Santa Rosa, Chuckwalla, Big Maria, Pyramid, Patterson, Glass, Edgar, Mitchell, Stepladder, Whipple, Palen, Martinez, Toro, Indianhead, Sombrero, Blue Angels, Hot Springs, San Gabriel, San Gorgonio, San Antonio, San Jacinto, Old Woman, Paniment Butte, Spectre Point, Porter, Ryan (2X), Quail (2X), Queen, many others | |||
| Rock climbing at Thaquitz Rock and Joshua Tree | ||||
| Nevada | Charleston, Griffith, Mummy, Wheeler, Jeff Davis, Baker, Jefferson, Arc Dome, Boundary, Ruby Dome, Spirit, Virgin, Moapa, Turtlehead, Bridge, McCullough, Grapevine, Stirling, Potosi, Hayford, Davidson, Muddy, Currant, Star; all 17 Nevada county summits; many others | |||
| Texas | Guadalupe Pk (2X), El Capitan, 5 peaks in Big Bend National Park | |||
| Hawaii | Mauna Kea (4X), Mauna Loa (2X), Hualalai, | |||
| Haleakala (34X, 2 from sea level including 1 round trip from sea level) | ||||
| Hanakauhi (2X), Kuiki, Kaala, Olomana, Chinaman’s Hat, many others | ||||
| 42 years of exploring on 6 islands | ||||
| Paddled Na Pali coast in 6-foot inflatable boat | ||||
| Other | Member of the American Alpine Club, Colorado Mountain Club, Sierra Club, Highpointers Club, and Natural Arch and Bridge Society | |||
| Recipient of the Sierra Club Farquhar Award in 2005 | ||||
| Recipient of the Colorado Mountain Club Ellingwood Award in 2006 | ||||
| Author of 15 mountaineering books | ||||
| See the 1976 American Alpine Journal for article on my Foraker climb | ||||
| I have instructed for the Colorado Outward Bound School | ||||
| I ran the Outdoor Pursuits Program at Fort Lewis College for 2 years | ||||
Copyright © 2001-2023 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved. |
