I don’t talk to the writer, I talk to the song.
– Luciano Pavarotti |
Chair Mountain – 12,721 feet
Often viewed from the highway near McClure Pass, this recalcitrant Twelver is a climber’s prize. |
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Chair Mountain seen from the northeast
The east ridge is the left skyline |
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Jack Dais on Chair’s lower east ridge |
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Jennifer and Jack Dais on Chair’s east ridge |
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Gerry following the natural line on Chair’s east ridge
Photo by Jennifer Roach |
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Jennifer approaching Chair’s summit |
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Chair from the highway west of McClure Pass |
| Except where noted, Gerry took the above photos in 2004 |
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Chair’s east ridge in May, 1971
Remember when we had real winters? |
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Gerry’s Chair in the Air expedition on top in May, 1971 |
| Gerry took the last two photos in May, 1971 while instructing an Outward Bound course. |
USGS 7.5’ Quadrangle: Chair MountainEast Ridge – Class 3 |
Unfortunately, public access to Chair’s east ridge is largely blocked by private property.
As always, get permission from the landowner before crossing any private land.
From 11,400 feet in upper Chair Creek to the summit, you will be on public land.
From upper Chair Creek, hike south to the 11,420-foot saddle between Point 11,866, a ranked Elevener,
and Chair Mountain. From this privileged position, you will have a dramatic view of Chair’s
northeast face, and a practical view of your approach to the lower east ridge.
From the saddle, hike 0.3 mile south-southeast, and climb a west-angling weakness to reach
the east ridge at 11,700 feet (Class 3).
Depending on the time of year and conditions, the approach to the ridge may be the crux of your climb.
Once on the ridge, scamper up it, staying south of the actual ridge crest.
Most of the climb is Class 2+, punctuated with occasional Class 3 moves.
If you find yourself making harder moves, look around for an easier way.
The mother rock here is solid, but the ledges carry many loose, and sometimes dangerously poised blocks.
When dry, the ascent of Chair’s east ridge is indeed a Colorado Classic.
Reach the summit ridge at 12,700 feet, and stroll 200 yards northwest across beautiful,
large blocks to the highest point. |
