Conducted safely, the pleasures of desert climbing, the freedoms from man’s trials and tribulations,
the warm dry air and peacefulness of a desert camp, when the rest of the world’s mountains are snowed in,
are the things that a guidebook can point toward, but are only found by climbing in these regions.
– Walt Wheelock |
Zion’s 7,395-foot North Guardian Angel |
| My quest for Zion’s Guardian Angel
Peaks began in 1978 when I arrived in Zion with only a rough idea of how to
reach these fabled summits. A major late November storm arrived a few hours
later and, wisely, I took my team elsewhere. My queue of things to do is often
quite long, but fabled peaks have a way of bubbling back to the top.
Jennifer and I checked out the modern trailhead for these peaks on
our return from California in April 2001. We also secured two trip reports
from the backcountry ranger. Armed with this information plus the ever-trusty
DPS description, we felt ready to attempt these summits. What we did not know
was that we were still under prepared for the task. |
| Determined to try, Jennifer and I drove
into Zion in early June 2001 during a period of spectacular, stable weather.
We planned to climb 7,395-foot North Guardian Angel first. The North Guardian
Angel is easier to approach, but harder to climb than 7,140-foot South Guardian
Angel. During our climb of North, we hoped to learn enough about this complicated,
canyon-ridden area to attempt the South Guardian Angel the next day. With
birds chirping in the fresh cool of dawn, we started for North Guardian Angel
at 6:40AM. |
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Determined to try, we started for North Guardian Angel as Pine Valley Peak ushered the moon to the horizon |
| After an easy mile on the Wildcat Canyon
Trail and another easy mile on the Northgate Peaks trail, we arrived at the
viewpoint between the twin Northgate Peaks where the guidebook description
assured us we would have a “full view of North Guardian Angel.” The book was
quite correct, and we were not disappointed. |
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A full view of North Guardian Angel |
| Leaving the security of the trail,
we descended the broad gully between the two Northgate Peaks and hiked south
to the base of our peak. Our first task was to do a “friction walk” up to
the level part of the ridge. This proved more difficult than we anticipated.
Using the tipped strata to advantage, we devised a devious route to minimize
difficulties. En route, we marveled at the peak above us. |
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A huge hole on the northeast side of North Guardian Angel as seen from the friction walk |
| On the ridge, we marveled at the views
while we rested in a dwindling patch of shade. We decided to leave some of
our water and gear here, and climb the peak with just what we needed for the
ascent. Description in hand, we studied the route carefully. |
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The route up North Guardian Angel goes up its east slopes |
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The first pitch on North Guardian Angel |
| After trying various starts,
I moved right and climbed over several delightful Class 4 spots, and easily
reached the first tree. The second pitch was easy Class 3 scrambling to the
left, up, then left again to a tree right next to a steep section. Happy to
be gaining height so easily, we eagerly tackled the third pitch. The guidebook
directed us to chimney between the tree and the rock for five feet before
committing to the rock. This was not really necessary, as the rock was easier
than it looked. Above the tree however, there was a “lip” that provided another
spicy Class 4 move to surmount. |
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Gerry caressing the lip |
| Above the lip, I scrambled easily up to the most famous tree on the route, a large tree that grows horizontally
out of the rock. Happy that we were on route and above most of the difficulties,
we paused for a drink in the tree’s shade. Engrossed in the climb, we did
our best to ignore the rising heat. |
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Gerry approaching the horizontal tree |
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Jennifer above the horizontal tree |
| After some easy scrambling,
we reached the route’s final obstacle, a traverse around an exposed corner.
The heat was in full flower here, and we used some of our gear to protect
this saucy spot. Above this final Class 4 move, the ridge angle relented,
and we made jokes about the angle of the angel as we walked to the top. |
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Gerry enjoying the easy angel angle near the summit |
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Jennifer on top of North Guardian Angel
South Guardian Angel is on the right |
| The spectacular summit views kept us spinning around through 360 degrees. |
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West Temple as seen from North Guardian Angel |
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West Northgate Peak as seen from North Guardian Angel
Pine Valley Peak is behind to the left |
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From the summit of North Guardian Angel, we spied the incredible South Guardian Angel, our next objective |
| Continue to South Guardian Angel |
