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Climbing is paying attention to things.  – Yvon Chouinard
North America’s Highest Peaks Photo Gallery

6. Alaska’s 17,400-foot Mount Foraker

Mount Foraker, Alaska Foraker’s north face

Gerry took this photo of Foraker in June, 1975. It shows Dave Wright and our Frostline Tent in our “Glacier Meadows” camp just above the Foraker Glacier. Foraker’s north ridge, or Archangel Ridge as we called it, rises 11,500 feet from the glacier to the summit. The Archangel is in the middle of the photo. At the time of this photo, all of the routes on Foraker’s north face were unclimbed.
Alaska’s Mount Foraker is ten miles southwest of Denali and is often called Sultana or Denali’s Queen. Foraker fascinated me in 1963 when I saw it from Denali, and I finally got my chance to climb Foraker in July 1975. We approached on foot from Wonder Lake with pack horses. The Archangel was a new route, and it remains my dream climb.
– Gerry Roach
Copyright © 2001-2023 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved.
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