This is the law of the Yukon, and ever she makes it plain:
“Send not your foolish and feeble; send me your strong and your sane–”
– Robert Service

Canada’s Summits above 13,000 feet

– Sorted by Elevation

Notes by Gerry Roach

1. Gerry Roach’s Canada climbs above 13,000 feet

   Gerry Roach’s totals as of 5/29/11: 7 ascents; 6/18 hard ranked; 7/53 overall
   
   
2. There are 53 summits on this list, of which 18 are hard ranked.
   
   
3. For this list, I require that a hard ranked summit have at least 2,000 feet of prominence.
   
   
4. I compiled this list from a variety of maps and other sources. There are variances due to differing contour intervals between the US and Canadian maps, and also because some maps are larger scale and older than others.
   
   
5. Maps listed are Canadian unless specifically denoted USA.
   
   
6. Prominence numbers for Steele, Wood, Slaggard. Maccauley, and Walsh are preliminary.
   
   
7. Logan Main Peak - First ascent 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy, H.F. Lambart, A. Carpe, W.W. Foster, N. Read, A. Taylor via the King Trench Route.
   
   
8. Saint Elias - First ascent 1897 by the Duke of the Abruzzi, Vittorio Sella, and party via the North (Abruzzi) Ridge.
   
   
9. Lucania - First Ascent July 9 1937 by Bradford Washburn and Robert Bates.
   Second ascent July 8, 1967 by Gerry Roach, Gary Lukis, Jerry Halpern, and Mike Humphries..
   
   
10. Lucania - Northeast Peak - First ascent July 16 1967 by Robbie Babb and Bob Kyrlach.
    
    
11. Mount Vancouver has three summits connected by a linear, north-south ridge, and the question of which summit is the high point of Mount Vancouver is an interesting one. The middle summit is lower than both the north and south summits. The south summit is the one that is the border summit between the United States and Canada, and this summit is known as “Good Neighbor Peak.” The wisdom of the ages is that the north peak is the highest, and this is based on the old 1:250,000 Canadian map that shows all three summits. The 1:50,000 Canadian map is based on the 1:250,000 map and does not add any new information, but it does have a smaller (40M) contour interval. Based on this, the best Canadian map, the elevations of the three summits are: north 15,787 feet, middle 15,551 feet, and south (Good Neighbor Peak) 15,682 feet.
    
    So what’s the mystery? The USGS 1:63,360 Saint Elias B5 Quadrangle clearly shows the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) to be 15,979 feet, which is an astonishing difference of 292 feet. Sadly, the USGS map does not show the middle or north summits at all. Clearly, either the Canadian or US map, or possibly both, are in error. It is likely that the newer USGS map is more accurate than the old Canadian map, which derives from a much larger scale. Thus the higher elevation for the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) appears to be the best number. This opens the intriguing possibility that the north peak, always believed to be higher, is actually over 16,000 feet. Indeed, adding 292 feet to the north peak would give it an elevation of 16,079 feet. I believe that the entire massif is higher than indicated by the Canadian maps, however I cannot invent a topography, and must use the best maps available for making this list. Accordingly, I assume that the elevations of the three summits are north 15,787 feet, middle 15,551 feet, and south (Good Neighbor Peak) 15,979 feet, and that the south summit (Good Neighbor Peak) is the high point of Mount Vancouver.
    
    
12. Fairweather - First ascent in 1931 by Allan Carpe and Terris Moore
    
    
13. Hubbard - First ascent in 1951
    
    
14. Alverstone - First ascent in 1951
    
    
15. Augusta - First ascent July 4 1952 by Peter Schoening, Vic Josendal, Dick McGowan, Bill Niendorff, Bob Yeasting, Verl Rogers, Gibson Reynolds, and Tom Morris via the lower Northwest Spur and upper North Ridge.
    
    
16. Cook - First ascent August 1 1953 by Dick McGowan, Franz Mohling, Tom Miller, and Tim Kelly via the North Face.
    
    
17. Waddington - First ascent in 1936 by Fritz Wiessner and William House.
    

Copyright © 2001-2023 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved.